Skullspace hosted a music hackathon this past June (2014), and I volunteered to put together a brief talk for the occasion. In it, I discuss the inner-workings of some classic transistor-based distortion circuits. See the video and slides below!
A few years ago I picked up this little gem of an amp at a gun show for a paltry 25 bucks. Not a bad snag!
It worked great, except the volume knob didn’t seem to do much… it always sounded like it was on full blast. So, I brought it down to Skullspace to tinker with it.
Aside from the potentiometer not really changing the volume, it was also quite scratchy when changing volumes. This is usually a sign of a worn-out potentiometer, so I ripped out the old one and temporary wired up a replacement off ebay.
I carefully tested the amplifier (you really dont want to touch the high-voltage tube supply wires in there when it’s powered…) and it sounded way better than before! I deemed it a success and installed the new potentiometer, still with test connections:
Everything seemed to work alright, so I soldered everything in place:
The only issue I faced was that the old wires did not really wick up the solder so well. I suspect there are some poor connections because of this, but for now it works… maybe some proper flux paste would work better than rosin-core solder?
Hello internet, I recently received my Gameduino2 via kickstarter and dreamt up a quick demo – tilting the screen moves the ball around (with realistic-ish physics), and keeping it on the “path” longer earns more points:
This demo doesn’t even touch the Gameduino2’s capabilities – just a fun proof of concept. Maybe someone can build off of it?
Anyways, code is available at https://github.com/trdenton/gameduino2-ballgame, including a pre-compiled .elf file for the arduino Uno. I am using the Eclipse Arduino plugin from http://baeyens.it/eclipse, and have included the project files. It should still work in the arduino IDE if you remove the eclipse project files – Enjoy!
My little Samsung netbook’s power supply died, so I thought I would see if it was an easy fix. Turns out the components are too tightly packed and coated with silicone adhesive-y stuff to easily find what is broken, but I did manage to shoot a video of a 150VDC capacitor discharge:
And that’s why you shouldn’t tinker with power supplies!